Minca was meant to be a footnote in our travels to Colombia. I’d read a few nice things about it being a cute but tiny backpacker destination in the mountains near Santa Marta. It ended up being a highlight of our trip and we enjoyed it so much we went back for a second day.
Many locals suggested staying for a night or 2 in Minca but since we had a car (and a really nice hotel booked in town), we didn’t mind the 45 minute drive if it meant we got to soak in the hot tub and sleep in luxurious beds back at Hotel Boutique Don Pepe after a day of hiking. That being said, there were a number of rad hostels (like Casa Elemento with the worlds largest hammock) that I wonder consider staying in if we ever went back. The roads in Colombia were way nicer than we expected, with fresh pavement all the way up to Minca. The traffic getting out of Santa Marta was pretty hectic (think traffic circles filled with dirt bikes, busses, and donkeys pulling carts), but once you got out of town the roads up to Minca were smooth and easy to navigate.
On our first visit, we were headed to Pozo Azul, a waterfall hike about 1.5 miles outside of town. Minca itself is a tiny but vibrant town perched in the mountains we a few restaurants, hostels, and a church with a playground at the center.
The smart thing to do would probably be to park in Minca (somewhere along the edges of the road on the outskirts of town seems to be the move), and then walk or catch a ride on a dirt bike (they’re everywhere, and yes, people do this!) to the Pozo Azul entrance. We decided to try our luck driving as far as we could go. The roads once you get past town turn to dirt/mud paths that are full of crater-like potholes and our 2 wheel drive rental car was STRUGGLING. We took it slow and steady and made it to the Pozo Azul entrance by the skin of our teeth. Once parked, it’s an easy hike on a wide dirt path to the waterfall with beautiful views of the jungle, horses, and masses of bamboo. Because the elevation is higher, the air is crisp and gorgeous compared to the sweltering heat of Santa Marta.
Upon first arrival to the waterfall, I was not overly impressed — the falls are not terribly big and it was a bit crowded with people lounging on the rocks, taking photos, and swimming.
But then, my adventurous husband convinced me to explore further by climbing up a wall alongside the falls using rocks and roots for grips. I told him absolutely not but after watching him scale it easily, I reluctantly followed. Above the waterfall, the river completely opened up with a beautiful jungle canopy above us. It was suddenly very quiet in the most magical way – the only sounds were the babbling from the river and the distant falling water. The light filtered in through the tree canopy like gold sparkles dappling the green and brown forest. Almost nobody was around except butterflies, hummingbirds, and a couple of less than friendly monkeys who LITERALLY threw their fruit snack at me. It was like were completely alone in the jungle and for the first time, if felt like we were in a very foreign and special place.
Later, I was to learn that jaguars are native to this area and one had in fact jumped out on the trail in front of a group tour in Tayrona National Park the week before. Luckily, no one told me this until after we’d done all our hiking because it would have totally ruined this magical moment for me. I even read up on “WikiHow: How to survive a jaguar attack,” but it was not reassuring in the slightest. “The jaguar is a very unusual killer. Rather than biting the neck, it goes for the back of the head to pierce the brain and kill the prey. Protecting your head could help you survive, although this cat has very strong teeth.”
Jaguar sightings, let alone attacks, are incredibly rare, which I tried to remember in my rational moments.
Back in town, we were drawn by the smells of freshly baked bread to to La Miga, a bakery specializing in pan au chocolat, which we devoured after dunking into cappuccinos and hot chocolates. I am always a fan of desserts first, but getting Ryan to indulge made it all the sweeter. Next, we went for a more proper lunch at The Lazy Cat, which was so delicious we came back on our second visit 3 days later. Their burgers were ridiculously large and they introduced us to limonada de coco y hierbabuena – an upgraded version of our new favorite drink that included pureed mint and the option to ask for either low or no sugar. The result was an incredibly fresh and less sweet version of the already delicious limonada de coco.
After a fantastic lunch at The Lazy Cat, we decided for just a bit more fun before heading back to Santa Marta. We stopped in at Rio Elemento, a hostel which I originally mistook for Casa Elemento, a hostel I’d read about as being famous for having the worlds largest hammock. Rooms at Rio Elemento start at $11/night and while I can’t speak to those, their other facilities included a bar with friendly bartenders, a pool with lively games, a very large hammock overlooking the river, as well as a very tall swing that glided over the river. We ordered a couple cold cervezas and went for a swing.
On our second visit to Minca, we were heading for the slightly longer hike to Cascadas de Marinka. This time, we parked the car in town and opted to hire a jeep to drive us to the waterfall. The road was basically a river of really deep mud and the going was treacherous, even in a Jeep with giant tires and 4 wheel drive. I was glad to have forgone the dirt bike choice as I would certainly have been covered in mud spatters in no time.
Cascadas de Marinka is privately owned by a family so there is a nominal fee to enter, but you’re rewarded with facilities like bathrooms, a hammock, and a restaurant. I thought the falls were way more impressive than Pozo Azul and featured a lovely swimming hole at the bottom that we were lucky enough to have to ourselves.
The water was icy cold but we just had to hop in for a swim. Having the place to ourselves was a treat after the crowds at Pozo Azul. After our swim, we used their bathrooms to change and decided to hike back to town instead of catching a ride, since it would be all downhill.
Pros: a reprieve from the oppressive heat of the coast, beautiful waterfall hikes, great food and hostel scene
Cons: Jaguars?
Must Dos: Cascadas Marinka, The Lazy Cat, pain au chocolate, swings and hammocks!
Things We Missed: coffee tours, cacao farms, Los Pinos, birding with Jungle Joe (see The Culture Trip for inspiration)
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